Travel

The Heart of Corfu

Greece – Kerkyra, Spyridon Church // For Your Eyes Only (1981)

When in Corfu, head to Spyridon Church – the alleys and piazzas around the old basilica are always packed with life. And with Bond history.

Why Bond was here
James Bond (Roger Moore) has to deal with Greek smugglers, who had stolen an important British military device. The trail leads to the Greek island Corfu and young Melina Havelock (Carole Bouquet). Her parents were archaeologists in aide to the British government and got killed. Bond and Melina join forces – and fall in love. In one scene Melina shows Bond the beauty of Kerkyra, Corfu’s main town – they walk through the city center around Spyridon Church, shop figs at the market and watch a Greek folklore dance.

Spyridon Church from James Bond For Your Eyes Only

Bond in the streets of Kerkyra

How you gonna get there
Corfu’s Kerkyra is an enchanted Mediterranean mix of Venetian, Roman and Greek architecture. The town nestles at the islands eastern shore, an old fortress – also a Bond location – guarding its harbor.
Saint Spyridon Church is in the old town of Kerkyra at Filarmonikis street. Its bell tower is the highest of all churches of the Ionian Islands, you can’t miss it. Just walk west from the Enoseos Square and the Listón.
The other scenes with the greek dance crew had been filmed at a small square at Nikiforou Theotoki, one of the main souvenir-trapped streets of Kerkyra. Just walk south from Spyridon Church and then turn right at Nikiforou Theotoki. The square – rather just a piazza – is at Spirou Vasiliou lane. Ask for the restaurant “Basilico”, it is just at the right corner.

Good to know
The old city around Spyridon Church is packed with tourists, shouting guides and trinket vendors. To escape the area, head a bit more west and look out for Skaramagka Square. This is the old Jewish quarter of Kerkyra. Here you find many cafés and small shops, that also rely on tourists – but without the annoying blatancy. Old cars corrode underneath cherry trees, greek grandmas sit on their porches and feed breadcrumbs to pigeons.

Look out for “Rose’s Bakery” in a narrow alley close to Skaramagka Square. Rose is a lovely old Jewish lady, who bakes wonderful croissants, cakes, pastries and bread. And serves “coffee with attitude” to it. Come with an open mind and time to listen, then Rose will tell you stories about the old days in Kerkyra and give you a warm hug for free. She is so loved by the crowds, that everybody leaves a thanking note on the wall. By now, greetings from all over the world cover the bakery.

Need something to wash down the sweets from Rose? Head to Platia Leonida Vlachou, the small park next to the harbour. After sunset, young couples from Kerkyra come to drink, talk and hang out. Small cafés put their chairs out and turn the night into a grand get-together. If you want to indulge Kerkyra and connect – this is your place!

© 2015 Huntingbond (1,3,4), © 1981 Danjaq, LLC and United Artists Corporation (2)

Standard