LEBANON – Beirut // The Man with the Golden Gun (1974)
In Western fantasies, the Middle East means bellydancers. So, when Bond made his first trip to the region, there had to be bellydancing in Beirut! Today, it’s a whole different story.
Why Bond was here
James Bond (Roger Moore) is on the hunt for Scaramanga (Christopher Lee), a high profile killer. Scaramanga’s signature is a golden gun with golden bullets. Bond travels to Beirut and meets with the bellydancer Saida in a both classy yet overblown nightclub. She has the remains of a once shot golden bullet – as a navel piercing. It’s Bonds first trace.
Fishing for the complement
How you gonna get there
Well, there is no real nightclub. Never had been. The scenes had been filmed at the Pinewood studios, maybe as a safe first introduction of the Middle East to the Bond film universe (before the comes to Egypt in the next outing).
However, the scene in The Man with the Golden Gun was authentic, Abu Ali, an aged Beiruti driver tells us. He knows his Beirut from the days when it was called “the Paris of the East”. Then it was cramped with bars, cafés and a joyous jet set ready for action. Bellydancing in Beirut was classy. People talked French instead of Arabic, dressed in mini skirts and listened to the ocean waves.
Somehow Beirut still is this place, but in a much more modern way and with a little scent of fear lying over the city all the time. Lebanon had its own civil war and now again has the Syrian civil war at his border. “Beiruti people tend to party away all the problems”, says Abu Ali. “Here, money rules everything.” What he means: Lifestyle beats tradition at every cost. Beirut once celebrated in the neighborhoods Hamra, Gemmeyzeh and along the corniche. Now, many bars are gone, rich investors from the Gulf states built big and bright luxury houses. And the bars have to move to the outskirts.
Abu Ali: “Bellydancing in Beirut is almost gone, just some rich restaurants treat it as either folklore or something, that feels like red light.” “Awtar” and “Nahawand” would be the only addresses in Downtown Beirut those days – and both are uncomfortable canteen-like restaurants. Outside of town, hotel “Le Royal” also offers bellydancing – but for the rich only.
Good to know
But relax: You can still have a great night-out in Beirut – even with some bellydancing. Check out the Metro Medina club or the Music Hall nightclub for Cabaret evenings and occasional oriental music nights with some modern twists and turns.
But to be honest, bellydancing isn’t the thing anymore. If James Bond would be around these days, he’d probably hit one of the thriving bars in the hipster neighbourhood Mar Mikhael or the funky Gemmayzeh area. Back in the 90s you had shabby houses and car repair shops lining up, now its micro breweries and pop-up stores. Mar Mikhael might look silent at day, but is pulsating at night.
Fancy a dring? We recommend the Anise and the Vyvyan’s in Mar Mikhael, the Central Station Boutique Bar for its live music or the Godot in Gemmayzeh. Ask bartender Shadi about his choice of Gin to get lucky – you’ll recognize him by his large beard.
© 2015 Huntingbond (1,3), © 1974 Danjaq, LLC and United Artists Corporation (2)